Namibia is a land full of surprises. We had done some research about Cape Cross but no amount of research could have prepared us for that one.
Indeed, nothing can prepare you to walking among tens of thousands of animals. With up to 200 000 seals concentrated over one beach during breeding season, Cape Cross Seals Reserve hosts the largest cape fur seals colony in the world.
This article describes this once in a lifetime experience and provide tips on how to visit the reserve.
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How to reach?
Cape Cross National Park is located 1h30 away from Swakopmund (130km). It takes roughly 4h to reach from Palmwag crossing through the Skeleton Coast.
Initially, we had planned to visit Cape Cross seals reserve only in case we had time. Luckily, spending more time with the Himba tribe meant that we couldn’t reach Swakopmund before nightfall.
Consequently, we were forced to stop at the nearest campsite which was coincidentally Cape Cross Lodge.
NassPacker Tip : Beware of the Skeleton Coast National Park gate closing times. You will be asked at the gate whether you want a permit to stay within the park or a permit to drive through the park. To stay overnight in the park, one must have a valid reservation for Tora Bay or Terrace Bay for instance. In order to drive through the park, one must arrive at the gate before 3pm as you may be denied entry after this time.
Where to stay in Cape Cross?
Get as close as you can from the Seals Reserve
Most travelers stay in Swakopmund or Henties Bay. Usually, they come to visit Cape Cross on a day trip from there.
However, we would strongly recommend staying in Cape Cross Lodge or in its surroundings. Being so close to the Seals Reserve will allow you to be the first visitors on site. You will then be able to live the unforgettable experience to see up to 200 000 seals all by yourself.
Cape Cross Lodge
The hotel have great facilities. Indeed, Cape Cross lodge features a restaurant and great camp spots which is where we stayed.
To choose a campsite, go to the reception of the hotel and pay the corresponding 330 NAD / 22 USD per night.
The campsite has great amenities, with a light for each spot, a kitchen counter area, running water to wash the dishes and common toilets and hot showers. WIFI tokens are also available at a price of 10 NAD / 0.7 USD for 30 minutes. It is relatively slow but enough to access to emails, Facebook and Instagram.
As far as electricity is concerned, it runs on the camp only from 6AM to 10PM. Since there are many scorpions in the area, make sure to bring a UV flashlight with you. With them being particularly active at night, you don’t want to mistakenly step over one.
Make sure to visit the Lodge’s museum and beach
The lodge also features a museum where the history of the fur business and the first European explorers to the area is detailed to the visitors.
Additionally, they also have their own access to the beach. We only went briefly in the morning. In fact, we were warned that some fellow travelers got bitten by jackals. They ended up being transferred by ambulance to the nearest hospital since the jackals had rabies.
What to see in Cape cross?
Walk amongst hundreds of seals starting in the parking area
We were told by some fellow travelers not to bother driving there. Some told us the smell was unbearable. Others told us it was simply not worth the time. We decided to anyway give it a chance and boy were we right!
Just head straight to the reserve entrance from the lodge. It takes a 5-minute drive to reach the entrance. In there, you can pay your entrance fees of 165 NAD / 11 USD per person before proceeding.
NassPacker Tip : Make sure to reach the reserve precisely at 8am. Thus you will be the first visitors on site making it a truly magical experience for you.
When reaching the parking, we just realized how crazy this place is. Seals were literally everywhere, making it difficult for one to walk. Little did we know that this was only a start.
Indeed, we found ourselves walking amongst hundreds of seals only in the parking lot area. All type of seals type were represented. From protective mothers sounding like sheep to huge alpha males fighting each other and roaring like lions. Meanwhile, others were clearly up to no good like this group of little rascals that crossed our way.
In the middle of this unrest, some seals were so sound asleep that we wondered whether they were dead.
Observe thousands of seals covering the beach from the viewpoint
30 minutes have past and we are still alone. There are so many seals that they are blocking the access to the viewing deck. We proceed very carefully in order not to put any stress over the animals.
We do not want to have any of them feeling trapped. However, there are so many that not disturbing them at least a bit is mission impossible. When reaching the viewing deck, we fall face to face with an angry protective seal that does not hesitate to roar and charge at us.
When finally able to reach the viewing platform, we discover a scene completely out of this world.
We see thousands of seals gathered in a tiny little beach. There are so many of them that they cover every inch of sand and rock.
Each time a seal moved, it created a sudden wave of movement from all the other seals.
Soon enough, the first 100 meters of the water were also full of seals.
They were having fun with the wave with some of them even doing some nice jumps.
While other decided to sunbathe quietly in the beach.
Don’t miss the Long Beach covered with tens of thousands of seals
On the left side, there is another very long beach. At first sight it seems empty and never ending. However, do not be fooled. If the first part from the viewpoint already had thousands of seals, this beach would actually be the area where most of them are.
Indeed by getting closer to the water, you realize that in this area you get to look at cape fur seals lying around as far as the eye can see.
Truly this experience was a once in a lifetime one. We had the impression to be living in a dream. It was surreal, as if we were on the “behind the scenes” of a Planet Earth documentary by David Attenborough. The number of seals lying around was simply impossible to process.
Learn about the ecological and historical importance of Cape Cross
How nature regulates itself
One must bear in mind that Cape Cross is home to a breeding colony of up to 200 000 individuals. This makes it the largest colony of cape fur seals on the planet.
The birthing seasons peaks between November and early December. Each male copulates with around 5 to 25 different females. They tend to protect their harem fiercely.
This leads to ferocious fights between male seals. Sadly, a consequence of these fights is that many puppies die crushed to death. Those who survive have to avoid the black-backed jackals and brown hyena attacks.
However, their high number is a cause for debate locally.
The seals have caused massive decreases in local fish resources. This affected the fishing industry but also resulted in mass mortalities among starving seals.
Nevertheless, nature seems to always find its way to regulate population. Over the years, the seals and fish population end up being steady without a need for human intervention.
Finally, make sure to understand the historical significance of Cape Cross
On the way back to the car, you can stop at the Portuguese Padrão cross. The original one was built by Diogo Cão. Diogo Cão was a Portuguese explorer whose mission to discover lands and for the Portuguese crown.
On his way to India and the Spice Islands (Modern Maluku islands in Indonesia), he stopped in Cape Cross. Erecting a Padrão cross was a way for the Portuguese to claim pieces of land. The first cross was erected in 1486, removed in 1893 and then restored later in the 20th century.
In the 1800s, cape fur seals skins and guano, a fertilizer coming from dried bird excrements, were the main exports to Europe. Nowadays, the government still provides yearly quotas for the harvesting of seals.
All in all, this experience is truly worth it, and we strongly recommend it to anyone who is visiting Namibia. The sight of hundreds of thousands of animals really makes you feel as an explorer.
As far as the smell is concerned, it is not as bad as advertised. At no point where we forced to leave because of the smell. Yes, it does smell a lot like animal poop, but we have to say as well that for once we were happy to wear the face masks.
After living this unforgettable experience in Cape Cross, recharge your batteries and fill up with adrenaline in Swakopmund.
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